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Lunigiana (pronounced Loonee-janna) is a magical place starting with
its name - the land of the moon. While it remains comparatively
undiscovered and unspoilt, it is neither isolated or remote. Situated about one
hour’s drive from both Pisa and Genoa with regular flights from the UK and one
and a half hour’s drive from Florence, few tourists have penetrated the cluster
of little villages straddling the valleys linking the mountains to the coast.
Lunigiana is a delight. The rolling landscape is liberally sprinkled with
castles of Medici or Malaspina vintage, but for lovers of the coast, the sea is
no more than half-an-hour’s drive away. The local trattorie are numerous and
give good value, and the local wine is plentiful and cheap.
The hills that encircle Lunigiana create an intimate and relaxed atmosphere
not always to be found in the more exposed plains to the south. The blend of
mountains and sea (‘monti e mare’) appeals to people of all ages. The villagers
are friendly and the hospitality warm and genuine, while the innate honesty
encountered in bars, shops and restaurants is unique to country retreats
unaccustomed to a stampede of tourists.
Lunigiana has always been a passage, once a road passing through the Magra
valley by which the Romans connected the Po valley to the Port of Luni at the
mouth of the Magra. The port was so splendidly adorned with marble that the
Normans destroyed it believing it to be Rome. In the middle ages the Via
Francigena, the first great European highway running from Canterbury to Rome,
passed through the area following the course of the river Magra and many inns
offered hospitality to Pilgrims near the churches or by the river crossings.
The nearby coast is heavenly, known as the Gulf of the Poets as Shelley,
Byron and D. H. Lawrence all lived there at some time. An enclave with a group
of three islands at its tip, it has fishing villages with exceptional fish
restaurants, as well as opportunities for sailing, canoeing, snorkelling or just
relaxing on one of the beaches hidden in craggy bays around Fiascherino or
Tellaro. The easiest way to get around the gulf is by ferry boat which runs
between, Lerici, La Spezia and Portovenere or on to The Cinque Terre, five
villages strung along the terraced cliffs looking out to the sea. These villages
are completely unspoilt and, until recently, could only be reached by boat or by
train. Anyone visiting the Cinque Terre should take a walk along the cliff paths
which link one village to the next, stop in one of the bars or restaurants and
try the anchovies marinated in olive oil and garlic, served with bread and
delicate white wine made from the grapes that grow up the steep terraces above
the villages.
On returning to the fresh countryside on a summer’s evening, the hill
villages of Lunigiana offer a choice of ‘festas’, or festivals, with food and
dancing. Some are deliciously simple: a plate of ravioli or vegetable pie made
by local women, a glass of robust red wine sitting at a long table with the rest
of the villagers and perhaps some dancing in the square under the fairy lights.
Others are much grander: Fivizzano hosts a medieval festival where the locals,
dressed in costume, compete in bow and arrow competitions and flag waving
dances. At Filetto, the whole village steps back in time; the castle is opened
up and the cooking offered is from ancient recipes. There is theatre, dance and
music with the locals all in medieval costume.
This beautiful corner of Italy has so much to offer those in search of a
retreat from the stresses and strains of every day life. And yet one more bonus
is the fact that it is still possible to buy an ancient water mill, stone
farmhouse, simple shepherd’s cottage or a medieval castle at some of the best
prices in Tuscany.
L'Architrave Uni Personale
Tel +39 0187 475543
info@larchitrave.com
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